Common faults and solutions for computer switching power supply maintenance?

Computer switching power supply failure troubles many users. Have you encountered similar problems? PHP editor Apple will bring you common faults and solutions in computer switching power supply repair, covering a variety of common problems, detailing the causes of faults and solution steps to help you quickly solve power problems and restore your computer to normal operation. . Read on to learn how to diagnose and fix common switching power supply failures.

1. Common faults and solutions for computer switching power supply maintenance?

Common faults and solutions for power supply maintenance of computer switches

1. Blown fuse

Generally, a blown fuse indicates that there is a problem with the internal circuit of the power supply. Since the power supply operates at high voltage and high current, fluctuations and surges in the grid voltage will cause the current in the power supply to increase instantaneously and cause the fuse to blow. The focus should be to check the rectifier diodes, high-voltage filter electrolytic capacitors, inverter power switch tubes, etc. at the power input end to check whether these components have breakdown, open circuit, damage, etc. If the fuse is indeed blown, you should first check the various components on the circuit board to see if the appearance of these components is burned and whether the electrolyte has overflowed. If the above conditions are not found, use a multimeter to measure whether the switch tube has a breakdown or short circuit. . Special attention should be paid to this: when a component is found to be damaged, you must not turn it on directly after replacing it. This is very likely to damage the replaced component because other high-voltage components are still faulty. Be sure to conduct a comprehensive inspection of all high-voltage components in the above circuit. Only after checking and measuring can the fault of the blown fuse be completely eliminated. ,

2, No DC voltage output or unstable voltage output

If the fuse is intact, there will be no DC voltage output at all levels under load. This situation is mainly caused by the following reasons: open circuit or short circuit in the power supply, failure of the overvoltage and overcurrent protection circuit, auxiliary power supply failure, oscillation circuit not working, overload of the power supply, rectifier diode in the high-frequency rectifier filter circuit Breakdown, filter capacitor leakage, etc. After measuring the secondary components with a multimeter and ruling out the breakdown of the high-frequency rectifier diode and the load short circuit, if the output is zero at this time, it is certain that the control circuit of the power supply is faulty. If there is some voltage output, it means that the front-end circuit is working normally, and the fault lies in the high-frequency rectifier and filter circuit. The high-frequency filter circuit mainly consists of a rectifier diode and a low-voltage filter capacitor to form a DC voltage output. The breakdown of the rectifier diode will cause the circuit to have no voltage output, and the leakage of the filter capacitor will cause unstable output voltage and other faults. Damaged components can be detected by statically measuring the corresponding components with a multimeter.

3. Poor power supply load capacity

Poor power supply load capacity is a common fault. It usually occurs in old-fashioned or long-working power supplies. The main reason is that the components are aging and the switching tube is unstable. There is no Dissipate heat in time, etc. You should focus on checking whether the Zener diode is hot and leaking, the rectifier diode is damaged, the high-voltage filter capacitor is damaged, etc.

2. Common car faults and repairs?

Common car faults and repair methods:

1. Difficulty igniting the car engine

This situation is usually caused by the blockage of the fuel injection head, and carbon deposits near the intake valve will also occur. Solve this problem The troubleshooting method is also very simple, just clean the fuel injection head and remove the carbon deposits.

2. The problem of smoke from the exhaust pipe

If black smoke comes from the exhaust pipe, it means that the engine mixture is too rich, resulting in insufficient combustion, a dirty air filter, a bad spark plug, or a faulty ignition coil can all cause this situation. . If white smoke comes out, it is most likely that the injector has poor atomization or oil dripping, causing part of the gasoline to not burn. There is water in the gasoline, there are cracks in the cylinder, and the machine temperature is too low.

If blue smoke comes out of the exhaust pipe, it may be that the piston ring and cylinder liner are not completely broken in, the oil enters through the gap, the piston ring is excessively worn, and the gap between the valve and the guide is too large. If you encounter these conditions, clean or Replace the fuel injector, remove moisture from the fuel tank and oil circuit, and replace the cylinder gasket, cylinder liner, and cylinder head. Install the piston rings correctly and reduce the oil in the filter oil pan; replace the valve guide.

3. The engine temperature is too high

Sometimes the engine temperature suddenly becomes too high while the car is driving, which means that there is a failure in the engine mechanical system. It is most likely that the cooling system is seriously leaking, and the head gasket that isolates the water jacket from the cylinder is If it is damaged, the main valve of the thermostat falls off, the fan drive belt is loose or broken, the water pump shaft and impeller are loose, and the fan clutch is not working properly. When encountering these situations, you only need to find out the cause and take appropriate repairs and replacements.

3. Common faults and repairs of pneumatic hammers?

Common faults and repairs of air hammers: (1) The hammer rod piston hits the upper cover of the working cylinder. The main reasons for this fault are the following:

(1) The nut of the working cylinder cover is loose or the upper cover is sealed The gasket is damaged and causes air leakage, resulting in insufficient gas pressure in the cavity. Therefore, the nuts should be tightened or the gaskets should be replaced in time.

(2) The steel ball of the steel ball check valve is not tightly connected to the hole seat, or the steel ball itself is out of round or broken, causing air leakage. Therefore, replace new steel balls, new springs, etc.

(3) The cap on the top surface of the piston is loosened due to impact and vibration, allowing air to enter the hollow part of the hammer rod, resulting in insufficient gas pressure. Therefore, the plugging cover should be repaired in time, so that the plugging cover and the hammer rod hole adopt an interference pressure fit, and then riveted flat.

(4) There are blisters, pores, and cracks on the top surface of the hammer rod piston, which may cause air leakage and reduce the air pressure. It can be solved by repair welding.

(5) If the height from the upper air passage to the top of the cylinder is not enough, the air pressure in the cavity will also be insufficient. A gasket can be added to the top of the working cylinder to increase the height.

(2) If the hammer head of a small air hammer cannot be raised to a suitable lifting position, generally the working surface of the upper anvil block should be higher than the lower surface of the hammer head guide sleeve, and cannot be lower than the hammer head guide sleeve. The main reasons why the hammer head is not lifted high are as follows:

(1) The air pressure supplied by the lower chamber of the compression cylinder is low and cannot meet the working requirements. Therefore, the hammer head cannot be pushed up.

(2) Compressed gas leakage is mainly due to cylinder wall wear, which causes gas to leak from the lower chamber of the compression chamber to the upper chamber, or causes the guide sleeve to leak outward, or the gas leaks from the rotary valve. Caused by leakage of steel ball check valve, etc.

(3) If the guide sleeve of the working cylinder is skewed, the lower part of the hammer rod is roughened, or the inclined wedge of the upper anvil is withdrawn, the hammer head will not be lifted high.

(3) The hammer head does not fall after rising or the striking energy is insufficient. For the hammer head to fall rapidly, the gas pressure on the upper part of the piston plus the weight of the falling part must be able to overcome and be far greater than the resistance and friction of the gas on the lower part of the piston. Therefore, the reason why the hammer head does not drop or is unable to strike is related to the gas pressure in the upper part of the piston, the gas resistance and friction in the lower part of the piston, which are summarized as follows:

(1) The gas pressure in the upper part of the piston is too small (such as the upper airway) Blockage, leakage of the top-swing valve, etc.), resulting in insufficient air pressure in the hammer head piston, and the hammer head is unable to strike.

(2) The resistance at the lower part of the piston is too large (due to the misalignment of the spin valve, which makes the opening of the air passage small or not open, etc.), causing the lower gas flow passage to be blocked or blocked, which will reduce the striking force or make the hammer head unable to come down.

(3) The friction is too great. If the hammer rod is upsetting, although the hammer head is lifted, it may be stuck and unable to come down. Another example is that the expansion ring of the working piston is broken, and the broken part pops out and is inserted into the air inlet. The hammer head is stuck and may not come down. In addition, the air hammer

(4) The hammer head guide bushing bolt is broken. The reason why the stud bolts connecting the hammer head guide bushing and the working cylinder are broken is because the nut is loose, causing uneven force on the bolt, or due to the sinking of the anvil. Or the height of the upper and lower anvil blocks is not enough, causing the working piston to directly hit the guide bushing.

(5) Hammer rod breakage and upsetting Most of the broken parts of the hammer rod are in the upper part of the hammer rod, while most of the upsetting parts of the hammer rod are in the lower part. The cause of hammer rod breakage starts with a short and fine crack and a small amount of upsetting. If it continues to be used, the crack will continue to expand, making the hammer rod unusable or causing breakage.

(6) Abnormal noise in the cylinder will produce abnormal noise in the working cylinder and compression cylinder. If not eliminated in time, it will cause serious equipment accidents.

(7) The working cylinder is severely heated. It is abnormal for the air hammer working cylinder to be severely heated and exceed the specified temperature (100℃).

In order to avoid the above phenomenon, the following aspects should be paid attention to:

(1) Cold or eccentric blows should be avoided during work.

(2) When replacing the hammer rod, the material should be improved. Generally, No. 45 steel is used, and the heat treatment hardness is strictly controlled to HB220-250.

(3) In order to prevent upsetting, when manufacturing a new hammer rod, the lower part of the hammer rod should be pre-ground with a taper of 1:200 (at 60-100 mm).

Only by understanding and mastering the fault repair methods of air hammers and small air hammers can we better use and maintain small air hammers so that they do not delay production and create greater economic value.

4. Common refrigerator faults and repairs?

1. There are many kinds. 2. Common faults of refrigerators include poor cooling effect, temperature control failure, water leakage, excessive noise, etc. These faults may be caused by compressor failure, condenser blockage, electronic controller failure, etc. During maintenance, it is necessary to carry out corresponding repairs and replace parts according to the specific cause of the failure. 3. You also need to pay attention to some things when repairing the refrigerator, such as cleaning the condenser regularly, maintaining good ventilation around the refrigerator, and avoiding excessive storage of food. In addition, if you encounter a fault that cannot be repaired by yourself, it is recommended to seek professional maintenance personnel to ensure safe and effective repair.

5. Common faults and repairs of SUV?

1. Water leakage

Whether the sunroof will leak is the biggest concern for car owners. According to experts, there are generally two reasons for skylight leakage. One is that there are some small grains of sand and dust in the skylight drainage channel, causing it to become clogged. The other is that the skylight sealing strip is "lifted" and shifted. Therefore, car owners should clean the skylight regularly to keep the area around the drainage channel clean. At the same time, car owners should not forget to ask the car washers to use special high-pressure jet equipment to spray in the direction of the drainage pipe when washing the car, and try to blow as much as possible. Remove dirt from pipes.

If the car's sunroof sealing strip is "lifted" and shifts, it means that the friction between the strip and the roof is too large, so car owners can spray a little plastic protective agent on the sealing strip and other components Or talcum powder, to reduce the excess friction between the rubber strip and the roof while maintaining the sealing performance of the sealing strip.

2. It makes a "squeaking" sound when it is opened

Some car owners rarely use their car sunroof, but once it is used, the sunroof will make a "squeaking" sound. Experts said that the situation of car sunroof is a common situation among many car owners who "only know how to use but don't know how to maintain". Experts said that the sliding mechanism of the sunroof is track-type. Generally, after the car owner uses it for a period of time (3 to 6 months), there will be a lot of dust and sand in the contact surface and gaps of the slide rail. If the sliding mechanism is not used regularly, After cleaning, the "squeaking" sound naturally exists.

3. Loosely closing the sunroof

The problem of the sunroof not closing tightly is a "minor problem" accumulated by car owners who do not regularly perform maintenance on the sunroof. Because the sunroof is designed with an anti-extrusion function, if the sunroof track is blocked by dust, there will be a problem that it cannot be closed. Therefore, car owners must frequently wipe the dust in the track. If you suddenly encounter a situation where the sunroof is not tightly closed during normal use, car owners can tilt the rear of the sunroof first, and then hold down the switch. After 1 minute, the sunroof will partially tilt again. Try this Close the skylight and it will be completely closed after a while.

4. Leaves and debris accumulate inside the window

Some car owners only remember to open the sunroof, but often forget to close it. As a result, some leaves, dust, bird droppings and other debris may enter the sliding track in the skylight, causing the sliding track to slide. Jamming, wear, and corrosion may even cause damage to the sunroof assembly in severe cases. This may cause the operating resistance of the skylight to increase, thereby affecting the normal closing of the skylight.

5. Insufficient lubrication

Although the skylight has a long service life, if it is used for a long time, there will be problems of insufficient lubrication and dust accumulation. At this time, the old grease needs to be cleaned and new low-speed grease needs to be applied. In addition to lubrication, this grease can also protect the surface of the machine parts, isolate air and moisture, and ensure that the machine parts are not prone to rust and aging.

6. Aging of sealing strips

Synthetic rubber is commonly used for sealing skylights. After a long period of exposure to the sun and rain, if you do not pay attention to maintenance, even the aging-resistant sealing strips will easily deform. Therefore, generally speaking, use a wet sponge to gently wipe the skylight sealing strip every 2 to 3 months, and then spray on rubber maintenance agent.

6. Common faults and repairs of air pumps?

1.

Common faults and repair methods of air pumps 1. The main reasons for the reduction of vacuum degree of air pump suction and blowing: (1) Insufficient oil in the vacuum pump

2.

What is the reason why the small air pump does not work? If it suddenly stops working, there may be the following reasons:

Is the power supply voltage normal at around 220V? If the power supply voltage is not around 220v or jumps sharply, it will affect the single-phase gas

Whether the switch is normal, the switch will also cause the single-phase gas pump One of the possible reasons for suddenly not working.

7. Common faults and repairs of pumps?

1: The switch often trips or cannot be closed?

1. The switch is aging

2. The switch selection is wrong

3. The water pump is stuck or the motor is internally short-circuited

4. The wiring is aging, short-circuited, the wiring is too small or the phase is missing.

Solution:

Turn off the power of the control system, and then use a winding meter to measure the motor to see if there is a short circuit or grounding phenomenon in the three phases of the circuit (note when measuring: remove the frequency converter output end to avoid damaging the frequency converter during testing) The output module is burned out): Turn the motor by hand to see if it is stuck; replace the switch if necessary.

2: Is the contactor noisy?

Due to the uneven contact surface of the contactor, there is sand or rust on the surface. The consequences will cause phase loss, and eventually lead to burnout of contactors, switching frequency converters and other components.

Solution:

Put down the load switch that controls the contactor. If the noise of the manual quick switch contactor does not disappear after repeated many times, you need to remove it and grind the armature flat, or replace it with a new contactor.

Three: Retsu dances often?

1. Motor overload.

2. Whether the selection matches.

3. Whether it is aging and whether the main line is too small.

Solution: Check whether the selection of the motor and the heat relay matches. Check the motor to ensure that the motor is normal. If this phenomenon occurs, you need to replace it with a new one. Replace with new matching main line.

4: The contactor or relay is not closing properly?

1. The coil is open at zero turn.

2. The intermediate relay head is broken.

Solution:

Check the line and replace with a new relay head.

5: Does the controller often report faults?

1. The parameter settings are incorrect.

2. The controller is aging.

3. The water pump is overloaded.

4. Lack of phase.

5. The line is loose.

Solution:

Reset the controller first. If the same fault occurs again in a short period of time, it means that the controller cannot continue to work until the work is relieved. Record the fault code generated by the controller, solve the fault according to the instructions, tighten all the circuits once, and measure the three-phase current to see if it is balanced. The lack of phase in the power supply causes the input terminal of the controller to burn out or the frequency conversion to age, so the controller needs to be replaced.

6: The output and input points of the controller are abnormal or cannot operate normally?

1. The input and output points of the controller operate frequently for a long time, causing the contacts inside the controller to burn out.

2. Caused by strong current passing through the contacts.

3. Program error or controller has been burned.

Solution:

It is necessary to update the program of the controller to change the burned input and output points to the backup electric shock, and replace the controller if necessary.

Seven: Is the pressure unstable and fluctuating?

1. The parameters of the controller are not adjusted properly.

2. The efficiency of the water pump is too low.

8: The system is sometimes good or bad and cannot run normally?

1. The circuit is loose.

2. Components are aging.

Solution:

Check the circuit, tighten the circuit, check and replace the components if necessary.

8. Common faults and repairs of automatic gates?

Common faults and solutions for automatic doors:

1 The door leaf does not move

(1) The door leaf does not move. Of course, you must first check whether there is power to it. If it is due to a power outage, just connect it to the power supply. .

(2) Whether the movable door leaves are mopping the floor. If this phenomenon occurs, the door will be very difficult to start. The main controller will think there is an obstacle and perform self-locking protection to stop the door leaves;

(3) Check Check whether the spreader wheel part of the door leaf has fallen off from the track. If this phenomenon occurs, the door leaf will not be able to move.

(4) Check whether the sensor automatic door is equipped with a "safety light". Dust coverage on the safety light receiver will also cause malfunctions, causing the automatic door master control to mistakenly believe that there is an object in the middle of the door leaf, thus stopping the door from closing. , not moving.

2 The automatic door responds slowly

(1) The detection range of the induction probe is too small.

(2) There is dust accumulation inside the induction probe.

(3) The door body is too heavy and exceeds the motor traction of the host machine.

3 The automatic door switch makes a loud sound

(1) The running wheels of the door leaf spreader have certain wear and tear due to long-term operation. If there is only slight wear and tear, the track and running wheels can be cleaned once, or they can be cleaned Add a little lubricating oil to the bearings of the running wheels, but do not add oil to the tracks and plastic running wheels, because it is easy to absorb dust after oiling, which will cause the running wheels to be damaged faster.

(2) Some metal connectors are loose and only need to be re-reinforced.

(3) Damage to the lower guide system will also cause loud sounds.

(4) Noise occurs due to friction between the movable door leaf and the fixed door leaf.

(5) The upper beam was not done well during the initial construction, or it resonated with the upper ceiling.

4 The automatic door keeps opening and closing by itself

(1) There may be moving objects entering the sensing range of the sensor detector, such as pedestrians, vehicles, colorful flags and even the shadow of trees.

(2) Maybe the detection range of the sensor probe is adjusted too downward. When the door leaf is about to close, the probe senses the movable door leaf again. The detection sensor device mistakenly thinks that someone is moving, causing the door leaf to open again.

(3) It is possible that the upper beam plate on which the induction probe is fixed is shaking, causing the probe to shake, causing the door leaf to keep opening and closing.

(4) Check in detail to see if there is any object near the automatic door that emits strong radio waves, because strong radio waves may also interfere with the sensor and cause malfunction.

Automatic doors have slowly begun to come closer to home life Yes, it is good to install it on the balcony and other places. It is more convenient to enter and exit. However, you must pay attention to the maintenance of the automatic door. If there is a fault, you can handle it yourself. If you don’t know about automatic door maintenance, it is recommended to find a professional for repair. .

9. Common faults and repairs of fish tank air pumps?

The air pump is one of the commonly used equipment for raising ornamental fish. It is indispensable for daily oxygenation of fish farming, filtering and purifying water with water fairies, etc. However, sometimes the air output of the air pump will suddenly decrease or even disappear. At this time, you need to perform the air pump troubleshooting procedure:

① Touch the air pump with your hand to feel whether there is vibration in the air pump. If there is no vibration, check ② If there is vibration, Continue to check ③.

② Check whether there is any problem with the power socket, etc. If the power socket is fine, then the internal coil of the air pump may be burned out, and you must quickly buy a new air pump.

③ First check whether the trachea is flattened, which affects the smooth flow of air. Secondly, check whether the air stone blocks the pores due to algae growth and affects the flow of air. If there is no problem with these two peripherals, continue to the next step④.

④ Some brands of air pumps have air inlets at the bottom, and use cotton fabric to filter dust in the air. Over time, the dust will become clogged. You can try cleaning or replacing it to see the airflow effect. If there is no problem after checking the above, the air pump is fine. If you feel weak, you can only perform a power-on inspection ⑤.

⑤ After turning on the air pump, first check whether the vibration swing arm is stuck. This kind of phenomenon is very likely to occur in air pumps that have been dropped. Generally, the fault can be eliminated by straightening the swing arm. Secondly, take a look at the rubber compression cup in the middle and see if the connection part with the metal swing arm is aged and damaged. If the cup is aged and damaged, you can buy accessories online and replace it yourself. If there is no problem after checking the above, it is probably because a few small plugs in the middle air chamber are broken, and there are no accessories for this. Those with strong hands-on skills can try using similar materials, while those with ordinary skills can just spend money to buy a new air pump.

10. Common faults and repairs of fire tables?

1. The remote control fails. The first reason is that the battery of the remote control is out of power. In this case, you can just replace it with a new one. The second reason is that the code matching is unsuccessful. In this case, you need to decode and code again.

コーディング方法：リモコンと製品の両方の電源が入っていて数字が表示されているときに、テーブルコントロールパネルの「+」ボタンを押し続けるか、コントロールパネルの「+」と「-」ボタンを押し続けます。電源オンプロンプトが表示されるまで、同じ時間 音が鳴り始めたら、リモコンを使用して調整できます。初めて失敗した場合は、繰り返すことができます。

2. テーブルの電源が入っていません。 1 つ目の理由は、ベースボード スイッチがオフになっていて、製品のベースボード コントロール ボックスのロッカー スイッチを直接オンにできるためです。2 つ目の理由は、配線ポートが緩んでいるため、電源ケーブルを再接続する必要があることです。下部加熱プレートのプラグをデスクトップケーブルプラグに接続します。

3. テーブルが揺れる。この場合、ロックナットが緩んでいる場合が多いので、ピンを直接締めてからピン上端のロックナットを締めてください。

4.下部ヒーターは発熱しません。 1つ目の原因は、コントロールボックスの左側のピンまたはピンのナット締結ボルトが正しく取り付けられていないため、ピンを増し締めするか、ピンのナット締結ボルトを締める必要があることです。サーマルプロテクタが故障しているか、温度ヒューズが切れている可能性があります。この場合、サーマルプロテクタまたは温度ヒューズを交換する必要があります。

5. 時々ブザーが長く鳴り、プラグを抜いて再試行すると正常に動作します。この状況は通常、グリッド電源の変動が大きすぎるか、電源電圧が低すぎることが原因で発生します。電源電圧を確認するか、電圧調整装置を使用してください。

6. テーブルの表面に電気が誘導されます。一般に、これは 3 穴電源ソケットのプレートが接地されていないか、接地が不十分であるため、ワイヤを再接地することで誘導電気現象を解消できます。

7. 漏電防止プラグの表示灯が点灯しません。これは、漏電防止プラグのリセットボタンが押されていないためです。もう一度押してください。

8. 操作パネルに表示はありますが、フットペダルが発熱しない、または上部発熱体が発熱しません。ピン防水プラグのワイヤーがデスクトップとボトムの防水プラグのワイヤーに正しく接続されていないことが原因である可能性がありますので、防水プラグのワイヤーを再調整して正しく接続してください。

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